Wave-energy
of ten seconds.
7
Shallow water waves
When deep water waves travel towards the coastline, their wavelength and
velocity decrease in shallow water. As soon as the velocity drops below a certain
level the wave breaks. The resulting breaking waves contains turbulence, which
cause dissipation of the kinetic energy. Usually breaking waves can easily be
recognized by their foamy whitecaps. Near to the coast the seabed starts to have
an influence on the velocities of waves. Water is considered to be shallow, if its
depth is shorter than a twentieth of the wavelength.
l
d<
20
For the velocity of shallow water waves:
m
v= g*d Ø v ~ 3* d @vD =
s
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