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"whitecaps" - 1 õppematerjal

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Wave-energy

As soon as the velocity drops below a certain level the wave breaks. The resulting breaking waves contains turbulence, which cause dissipation of the kinetic energy. Usually breaking waves can easily be recognized by their foamy whitecaps . Near to the coast the seabed starts to have an influence on the velocities of waves. Water is considered to be shallow, if its depth is shorter than a twentieth of the wavelength. l d< 20 For the velocity of shallow water waves: m v= g*d Ø v ~ 3* d @vD =...

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